The Local Pub Izletniška Kmetija DORNK

Whenever we visit a new country, we try to eat locally and visit some local restaurants and pubs. And while in Bled, we found the perfect spot. If you’re looking for an authentic Slovenian experience, look no further than Izletniška Kmetija DORNK. It is the most local pub you can find here. Family owned and run for decades. Read on to learn more. 

What makes Izletniška Kmetija DORNK truly special is the sense of family that permeates the place. Owned and operated by three generations of women, this establishment is more than just a business—it’s a family legacy. As you enter the door, you feel like you’re part of the family. The warmth and friendliness of the owners are immediately evident, and their passion for preserving their heritage shines through in every aspect of their pub.

Superb Food and Drink, Reasonably Priced

We highly recommend sampling all their food and beers. They have a handful of home-brewed beers, and their cold plates of homemade food are simply the best. Think fresh, local ingredients and traditional Slovenian flavors—all served with a smile. 

And let’s not forget the home-brewed beer! This craft beer is a must-try and pairs perfectly with the cold plate, offering an authentic taste of Slovenian hospitality.

The prices are reasonable, making this spot an even more attractive destination. We tried all the beers and the shepherd’s plate and can recommend both.

A Visit to the Black Kitchen 

One of the unique features of Izletniška Kmetija DORNK is the guided tour of their historic home, complete with a traditional black kitchen. This ancient, smoke-filled kitchen is a rare find and offers a fascinating glimpse into the Slovenian culinary traditions of the past. A black kitchen is a traditional, smoke-filled kitchen once common in rural Slovenia. The name “black kitchen” comes from the room’s appearance: the walls and ceiling are stained black from the soot of an open hearth. Unlike modern kitchens, black kitchens were designed without chimneys. It’s an open fire pit, usually located in the middle of the room or against a wall. Instead, the smoke from the fire would fill the room before slowly escaping through openings in the roof or walls. This method allowed the smoke to cure meats and protect wooden beams from insects, giving the kitchen a multifunctional purpose.

Here’s how a typical black kitchen operates:

• • The fire is built directly on the ground or on a low stone platform. There’s no stove or oven as we know them today; food is cooked directly over the open flames or hot coals. 
  • Without a chimney, the smoke from the fire would fill the room, giving it that characteristic “black” appearance over time. This smoke served several functions: it preserved meats and other foods by smoking them, provided heat during the cold months, and helped keep insects away.
  • One of the unique aspects of the black kitchen is its use for curing and smoking meats. The smoke from the fire would infuse meats with flavor while also acting as a natural preservative. Traditionally, sausages, hams, and other meats would be hung in the kitchen rafters, where the smoke could reach them easily.
  • While it might seem impractical, black kitchens had a simple yet effective ventilation system. The kitchen would have small openings or vents near the roofline or in the walls to allow some of the smoke to escape. 

And the best is that the black kitchen is still in use occasionally. 

 Ethnological Collection Museum

If you’re lucky, you might be invited to visit the ethnological collection museum in a separate building on the property. This big and enchanting collection showcases beautiful porcelain pieces that the family has lovingly curated. It’s a delightful addition to the experience and adds another charm to your visit.

The old stable, with its small windows and vaulted ceiling, creates a charming atmosphere that enhances the unique collection on display. One part of the barn features a collection of embroidered tablecloths and napkins made by Grandmother Simona over 20 years, showcasing various colors, stitches, and hand-crocheted lace. These pieces beautifully match the china and ceramics on the table. Additionally, an ethnological exhibition offers insight into the daily lives of past generations, with items once used in the kitchen, pantry, bedroom, and bathroom, along with old farm tools demonstrating traditional Slovenian crafts like shoemaking and wool spinning. The barn also houses rustic tools for heavy work, such as carpentry equipment, carriages, and sleighs, providing an interesting perspective on the labor-intensive farm life of the past. Both men and women leave with a shared appreciation of how challenging farm life used to be.

Impeccable Service and a Truly Slovenian Ambiance

We especially enjoyed the impeccable service. Every question is answered with patience and a smile, and the staff goes out of their way to ensure you have a memorable experience. Whether you’re asking about the house’s history, the ingredients in the cold plate, or the brewing process for their beer, you’ll receive thoughtful and thorough answers. Before you head out to Izletniška Kmetija DORNK, keep in mind that this family-run pub has varying hours, and sometimes they close as early as 20:00. It’s always a good idea to check ahead and plan your visit accordingly. See more on their website. 

Izletniška Kmetija DORNK is more than just a place to eat and drink—it’s a cultural experience that shouldn’t be missed. Just a short walk from the tourist strip on Lake Bled, this delightful establishment offers a rare glimpse into Slovenian life, complete with homemade food, home-brewed beer, and a welcoming atmosphere that feels like a home away from home. 

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