From Buková to Ostrý Kameň and Slovakia’s Highest Little Carpathian Peak
Slovakia’s Little Carpathians don’t shout for attention, but they reward those who wander in with terrain that shifts from quiet forest trails to rugged limestone ridges and centuries-old ruins. The hike from Buková to Záruby, with a stop at the jagged remains of Ostrý Kameň Castle, captures this contrast with every step. Just an hour from Bratislava, this trail cuts through one of the country’s lesser-known but most accessible mountain ranges, offering a day-long trek that combines elevation, solitude, and views across the Trnava lowlands. You don’t need alpine stamina, just a steady pace, solid shoes, and a willingness to follow red trail markers up the backbone of the Small Carpathians.
Our waddle:
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- Waddle duration: 4 hours and 46 minutes
- Distance: 11,50 km (7,14 miles)
- Route: Yellow&Red&Blue&Green
- Map: link
- Difficulty: medium
- Things to see: Bukova Water Reservoir, Zaruby, Zaruby Sedlo, Ostry Kamen Castle Ruins, epic viewpoints
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Where to park in Bukova
You can park near the Buková reservoir. Free parking is available close to the water, particularly on the northwest side of the reservoir. This area serves as a common starting point for various hiking trails, including routes to Ostrý Kameň Castle and Záruby Peak. You should adhere to local regulations by avoiding parking on grassy areas or near the reservoir’s banks, as such actions are prohibited to protect the natural environment. Alternatively, parking in the village of Buková is an option, with a short walk leading to the trailheads. These parking spots provide easy access to the Little Carpathians’ hiking paths, making them ideal for day trips.
Our Waddle to The Highest Peak in Little Carpathians
We park near the Buková reservoir in a small gravel area that sits just a few steps from the trailhead. The air feels calm but steady. The sky is a soft, pale blue, with no signs of fast-moving clouds. It looks like a good day to be out. We cinch our gear, check the route markers, and begin our hike on the yellow trail. The path winds around the Bukova Water Reservoir.
Bukova Water Reservoir
Buková Water Reservoir sits at an elevation of approximately 285 meters above sea level. This reservoir is a favored destination for fishing and water sports enthusiasts, offering a tranquil setting amidst the natural beauty of the Little Carpathians. The area surrounding the reservoir is accessible by foot, bike, car, or bus, and free parking is available nearby. The reservoir serves as a convenient starting point for hiking tours to the Malé Karpaty, including routes to Ostrý Kameň Castle and Záruby Ridge, the highest point in the Little Carpathians.
It came into existence as an artificial structure built during the 1960s. Originally constructed for irrigation and water management purposes, it also helped regulate the nearby streams flowing through the Little Carpathians. Over time, the reservoir became a popular local recreation area. Its waters stretch over an area of roughly 14 hectares, with a depth reaching up to 7 meters at its deepest point.
We continue our waddle from the gravel path by the reservoir and head toward the forest, where the trail begins to rise gently underfoot. Within minutes, the landscape shifts. The forest greets us with a wash of endless green, a palette of spring leaves stretching in every direction. The air carries a crisp, earthy scent, and the trail becomes flanked by dense patches of bear garlic. Its broad, pointed leaves spill across the forest floor, brushing our boots as we pass. For long stretches, the path feels more like a corridor carved through a living carpet, the garlic blooming in silence beneath the trees.
After a steady climb and several quiet bends in the trail, we reach Záruby sedlo. The terrain flattens slightly here, enough to catch our breath and take in the shift in the landscape. The path underfoot turns rockier, with exposed roots cutting across the soil and jagged limestone slabs pushing through the forest floor. It feels like a natural threshold, a transition point between the lower forest and the climb ahead to the ridge. On the way up, rain begins to fall, light at first, then steadier. But the tall, close-growing trees form a shelter, catching most of the drops before they can reach us.
Reaching Záruby
From Záruby sedlo, the final push takes us up a short but steep ascent to the summit of Záruby, the highest peak in the Little Carpathians at 768 meters. The trail here narrows and becomes rockier, requiring careful footing as it winds through scattered limestone outcrops. At the top, we find an iron double cross standing tall, a symbol with deep historical and cultural significance in Slovakia. This cross marks not only the summit as a geographic high point but also as a place of remembrance and national pride. From here, on clear days, panoramic views stretch across the surrounding hills, the Trnava lowlands, and beyond into neighboring regions. The summit’s rugged charm and the weight of history create a quiet moment to reflect before the descent.
We take a well-earned break near the cross, unpacking a thermos of hot coffee and some cookies. Sitting on the worn rocks, we let the warmth seep in and enjoy the simple comfort of the pause. Around us, the air is still except for the occasional breeze stirring the treetops below. The break is brief but restoring, fueling us for the next stage of the hike as we prepare to continue along the ridge.
From the summit of Záruby, we set off toward Ostrý Kameň, eager to explore the historic ruins perched further along the ridge. As we descended, the trail began to shift, with narrower paths, uneven rocks, and occasional steep drops testing our footing. At times, we zigged off the official route. I would say we were drawn by curiosity and the lure of less-traveled terrain, but honestly, we just took a wrong turn. 😅 This unplanned detour added a sense of adventure to the hike, challenging us to navigate carefully through dense underbrush and rocky slopes. We welcomed the change; the landscape around us transformed, alternating between thick forest patches and open rocky ledges.
Ostrý Kameň Castle Ruins
Ostrý Kameň Castle stands atop a limestone cliff at the end of this trail segment. Jagged walls rise unevenly against the sky, fragments of a fortress that once guarded key medieval trade routes. You can explore narrow passages, climb crumbling battlements, and trace the stone foundations outlining the stronghold’s shape. From this vantage point, expansive views stretch across surrounding valleys, reminding hikers of the castle’s strategic role in the region.
It covers an area of roughly 1,200 square meters. The fortress consists of a main courtyard surrounded by defensive walls, with remnants of residential buildings and a tower still visible. Although not large compared to other medieval castles, its compact size suits its strategic position atop a steep limestone cliff, allowing it to control and monitor the important trade route below effectively.
Ostrý Kameň Castle dates to the 13th century and protects the Czech Road, a vital medieval trade route linking Bratislava to Central Europe’s interior. Noble families have controlled the castle at various times, using it for both defense and administration. Although the castle fell into ruin by the 18th century, it remains a cultural landmark today.
Local legend tells of hidden treasure buried beneath the ruins, guarded by the restless spirit of a knight who defends the fortress. Maybe next time we will try to find it.
We take another break near the castle ruins, finding a tree trunk to sit and rest. We unpacked some snacks and finished the remaining coffee. The quiet here feels different, surrounded by ancient walls and the distant views over the valley below.
After this pause, we gather our gear and begin the descent, retracing steps through the forest and back toward Buková reservoir. The path leads steadily downward, winding through familiar greenery until the open space of the reservoir comes back into view, marking the end of our hike.
Near the reservoir, we heard some thunder promising a storm was ahead, so we had to hurry to the car and make it just in time before it started to rain.
Hiking Highlights and Honest Thoughts
The changing terrain along the trail keeps the hike engaging from start to finish. Moving from peaceful forest paths to rocky ridges and open fields of bear garlic creates a varied experience that never feels monotonous. The official trail markings could use some improvement; at times, it feels easy to lose the path or take a less obvious route, especially between Záruby and Ostrý Kameň. Still, this added a touch of adventure rather than frustration. The viewpoints, particularly from Záruby summit, offer stunning panoramas that reward the effort of the climb. Ostrý Kameň Castle stands out as a charming historical stop, blending natural beauty with cultural depth. Overall, the hike combines physical challenge, scenic variety, and a hint of mystery, making it a memorable journey through one of Slovakia’s quieter mountain areas.
Pack your bag and waddle more!
